Saturday, July 20, 2002

India Tour - Mathura-Agra-Delhi

20 July – Agra 

Left the hotel at 6 am to catch the 7:15 am shuttle to Agra (from Mathura). People were singing bhajan all the way…very nice atmosphere. We reached Agra at 8:30 am. This time we did get a retiring room at the railway station. Very comfortable. We then hired a taxi for Rs 550 for the day.  The driver, Ram, took us to Fatehpur Sikri, Agra Fort and then Taj Mahal. Fatehpur Sikri is about 45 min drive from Agra. There were some reech (bear) dancing on roadside. 

Once we got to Fatehpur, the first thing we did was pay respects to Salim Chisti’s dargaah. It is as soon as one enters through the Buland darwaza. Really pious place. One feels like all their wishes would come true. (Although none of mine did). There were so many vendors outside the fort, but thank god, none inside.  Then we walked around inside. We found a guide right in the beginning – always godo to have a guide.  Fatehpur Sikri was built by Akbar when his wish for having a son came true (by Salim Chisti).  We walked around to the Joda Bai mahal, Miriam mahal, Diwan-e-Khas etc. It was not a huge fort, very comfortable to walk around. They had good engineering back then also to keep the buildings cool, have a water system, etc. 

A little boy had been walking with us for a while and he wanted to recite a sher…well..finally he said it. It was so sweet – I don’t rememeber it – but it was cute. Our driver took us for breakfast – jalebi, lassi and kachori – nothing is better than that! We took some laddu for later. 

Next stop was Agra Fort.  Got a guide again from inside. It is kind of like the Fatehpur Sikri – same kind of living quarters, but larger. And once we walked out of Huaz Khas, I could see the Taj Mahal clearly. So beautiful, even from so far away. This is the location where Shah Jahan, along with his daughters – Jahanara and Roshanara were held captive by his son – Aurengzeb. The fort was all very beautiful and some of the lookout areas were even more beautiful. Sat out there for a while looking at Taj. 

Left around 2-2:30 for Taj. Cars don’t go there, so had to take a rickshaw.

There was great security to see the Taj. They went through the bags and removed – food items! Hmmm..okay. I left all that in the locker. There was a big enternace. The most interesting thing about the way one enters Taj is that you don’t see it until you see it….and then the view is just amazing.  So for the first few minutes one does not even realize where they are going. So after going through a huge gate, I first set eyes on the Taj – and of course the first comment is “Oh My God!!” – just so beautiful to see. 

Papa and I sat in the front for a while and then walked to the Taj. There is really not much to see there anymore. The engravings are beautiful, they used to be colored but now they are just empty engravings. But still the intricacy of it all is commendable.  All the Koran aayetein are written in such a way that one can read them top to bottom, so the size changes. The graves of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz are below the main floor, but they are locked up now – they used to be accessible before. 

There are two mosques on either side of the Taj and of course the four minarets on the four sides. I think the most impressive thing about the Taj is the symmetry of it all. And I think that is why I feel so connected with it too. I like symmetry in my life. 

Papa sat down while I walked all around the Taj. It was too hot and we are not allowed slippers in the Taj, so it was a little tough to walk around. But I wanted to. Very nice – so scenic, sitting on the banks of Jamuna. Great tour! 

Went back and on the way back our driver, Ram Babu stopped at Brijwasi Petha – of course I bought some! Also stopped by a UP Handicraft store and bought Taj Mahal replicas, one for me and one for Bhaiya. Bought carpet for Bhaiya and chappals for me. Had Bhaiya’s stuff mailed to him from the store directly (he got it after about 4-5 months – not a bad deal!). 

And we were back in our room by 4:30 pm. Great tour! And then it rained. No problem. We ate namkeen, chatted and just rested. Went to the Sadar Bazaar later – it was quite a posh bazaar. Came back soon as we had planned to do shopping in Delhi. Had dosas for dinner and went to bed.

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