Argentina-Patagonia: El Chalten

25 March: El Chalten, Hike to Laguna Capri to see Fitz Roy

We are leaving early today for El Chalten. Luggage was loaded and we were ready to go around 8:30 am. The road, Route 40, was quite scenic. Mountains on both sides, the river winding from left to right. We saw some wildlife on the way – guanaco, a cousin of llama, Lesser rhea, a cousin of ostrich, a red fox. The interesting thing is that all these animals were almost the same color as their surroundings, so they blended into the earth. Kike, our driver, was good in spotting all these. We started seeing Mt. Fitz Roy soon and the view got better and better. We started seeing the Torres (the three towers), the Solo (the youngest of the mountain with a glacier on top). There were glaciers in the back range also. Just gorgeous. We made a couple stops to take photos. There was also the bathroom and coffee stop at La Leona.

On the way - Route 40

Starting to see Fitz Roy

The ranches that we are seeing are called Estancia and they can be really huge swaths of land.

We reached El Chalten by 12:30 or so. Checked into our rooms, Posada El Barranco hotel, and got our lunch bags for the hike and off we went. This hike was to see Laguna Capri, a lagoon from where we get a scenic view of Mt. Fitz Roy. It was about 9 km round trip. They told us that there would be about 1.4 km of incline. I was done in the first 30 mins! But there was no stopping. The only saving grace was that there were group members slower than me. The embarrassing thing was that they were 20 years older than me! Oh well. I went at my pace. It was bloody hot and I was sweating. We got to one beautiful viewpoint and had lunch there. We had done less than 2 km only. Yikes! Sandwich was really good. Well…got up and starting walking again. The hike was not hard, it was just the incline that was killing me. And then I had to go. So I had to go behind the bushes, where others had also gone as the evidence they left of all the toilet paper….not good.

After 1 km of hiking

Later on at a small stream, Pilli filled my water bottle. Really wonderful cold water. So refreshing to drink. 

We reached Laguna Capri around 3 pm. It was gorgeous. The day was beautiful and mountains were all clear and crisp to look at. The lake was just gorgeous. All the sweat was worth it. I took off my shoes and stepped into the lake, just feet. The water was chilly!! Such a rush. I had to get out in 15 secs. Sat there for 15 or so mins to enjoy the view and take photos. I filled my water bottle again with the lovely cold water for drinking.

Laguna Capri

Then the slow group walked with Pili. The fast walkers could enjoy a bit more if they wanted but they still passed us on the trail! We took our time and reached down by 6:30 pm. There was not enough time to go to the hotel for a change and the restaurant we are going to was still a mile away, so Pili found a ride for us poor souls.

It was a small place and one could choose from a 3 or 5 course menu. I chose 3, although I would have been sufficient with just one. We get an appetizer, main course and either salad or dessert. I selected dessert. While the dinner was being prepared three musicians came out and played some songs. Nice atmosphere.

First came the appetizer – lots of meat for the carnivores. I have no idea what the vegetarian option was – some potato maybe? There were grilled tomatoes and mushrooms. There was not much taste in it, but the sauce they had with it was tasty, so I ate everything with it. They brought out a bread basket, then some salad, even though we did not need one.  The main course was grilled vegetables and some cheese potatoes. The grilled vegetables were all so charred that it was impossible to eat them. I had to send them back. I did not want a replacement because I was full and also was not interested in just eating more vegetables. Then they brought dessert but forgot mine. Pffff….so annoying. Terrible. Finally they did bring the dessert but it was such a tiny amount. They still charged the full $55. Terrible experience.

Beautiful El Chalten

Cheezy bake

Walked back to the hotel and took a shower (finally), but could not sleep till after 12 am. We don’t have to leave tomorrow until 9 am so I can afford to sleep in.

26 March: Hike to Cerro Torre

Got up around 8 am …wow. Late for me. Outside the sun was still rising and the sky looked beautiful. Am so much in two minds about going at all for the hike today. It was decided yesterday that there will be two groups – one for short and one for long hike. Short is 10 km round trip vs 20 km. I am definitely the short hike. But that also I am debating. But then I decided, everyone is slow in this group, I will be fine. It was a good decision.

We left around 9 am after collecting our lunches. Had to walk about 15 mins to get to the trail head. We will first go to a waterfall, Margarita, and then the long hike group will go off while we will go on our short hike. This hike was lovely, and Pili is just amazing tour guide. Even getting to the waterfall showed that this hike was more challenging than yesterday, in certain places, but overall it was better. We got to the waterfall, where there was not much to see because there was not much water in it (no rains), but the river below, the Fitz Roy, was beautiful to see. The color was so different, and it was moving with a lot of intensity. Took photos and moved on. 

Margarita Falls

Mt Fitz Roy at the back

The next 2 hours went slowly and steadily with beautiful views. I really enjoyed the slow pace of this hike. As usual, filled our water bottle with cold stream water on the way.

The Cerro Torre viewpoint was just breathtaking. All the glaciers, the mountains, the river.  All too good. Took plenty of photos. Ate some snack. And then it is time to trek back. This hike as much as it was slow paced, it was also quite up and down and dangerous in some places. Too many boulders, odd shaped steps, some place we had to hold chains to go up. We had to be careful. Saw some mushrooms, flowers, birds. Pili knows a lot about the natural habitat, so we were learning a lot. We were all also chatting a lot with each other. 

Got back down by 3ish. Went to this open restaurant for drinks – chilled coke. It was great. Came back to the hotel, took a shower and rested. Ate my sandwich, it was good. Pili sent a message to meet at 6:30 in the lobby for information, so went down. All good. The long hike people were there too….I saw their photos and I am so glad I did not do that long hike. There are clouds over the mountains! It’s clear and sunny but cannot see the three peaks (Torres Pines). The lagoon is also kind of murky because of the sediments of the river. So the pictures don’t look as great as yesterday’s lake pics were. But of course, they enjoyed.

El Chalten from above

Dinner was at… I just had one empanada. I cannot eat so much. From tomorrow on, no dinner at all. 

27 March: El Chalten and drive back to El Calafate

Today was an easy going day. I was not planning on hiking to the waterfall after hearing that it was a 4 mile round trip. Nope…I know I have to walk later so I am saving my energy. I wanted to see the city, do some souvenir shopping and just be by myself, I walked along the one street in the town. Walked on to the end of the town, crossed the bridge but came back to the river. Walked along the river till there was no more trail. It was really pretty scenery all along. Walked back to Bennaton (Sebastian's bakery) to have coffee and something to eat (Focaccia). All good. Walked back to the hotel. Ended up doing all this once more with Julie, but the sun was quite high so not as scenic anymore. 

We left El Chalten at 2:15 or so, stopped at the La Leona place for bathroom break and reached the Kau Yaten hotel by 5:30 pm. The rest of the day's events are in El Calafate blog.